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Hydrangea: planting and care in the open field, wintering, pruning, transplanting, species and varieties

Hydrangea: planting and care in the open field, wintering, pruning, transplanting, species and varieties



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Houseplants

Thanks to archaeologists, it became known that the hydrangea already existed at least forty thousand years ago. In Asia, this plant has been cultivated for a long time, and Europeans began to show interest in it only since 1900, although hydrangea was brought to Europe from Japan almost a century earlier. Now this shrub is found everywhere.

Hydrangea has the unique property of accumulating aluminum in itself, and then the inflorescences on the bushes turn blue or blue.

  • How to grow hydrangea from seeds?
  • How to plant a shrub?
  • How to care for hydrangea throughout the season?

You will find answers to these and other questions in our article.

Planting and caring for hydrangea

  • Landing: in the fall, sowing seeds for seedlings, followed by planting seedlings in open ground in early spring two years later. In the south, seedlings can be planted in the ground in the fall.
  • Bloom: from early summer to late autumn.
  • Lighting: partial shade in the southern area, bright sunlight in the middle lane and more northern regions.
  • The soil: rich and moist, lime-free (pH 5.0).
  • Watering: weekly and plentiful, water consumption - 15 to 20 liters per plant.
  • Top dressing: in early spring - with urea solution, after flowering - with complex mineral fertilizer.
  • Cropping: annually from 3-4 years old. Paniculate and tree-like - in March-April.
  • Reproduction: seeds, dividing the bush, grafting, layering and green cuttings.
  • Pests: spider mites.
  • Diseases: peronosporosis, chlorosis.

Read more about growing hydrangeas below.

Plant hydrangea (Latin Hydrangea) belongs to the genus of flowering plants of the Hortensia family, which, according to various sources, includes from 30 to 80 species of shrubs, lianas and small trees. In nature, hydrangea can most often be found in East and South Asia - in Japan and China. It also grows in the Far East and North America. The hydrangea flower got its name in honor of the princess of the Holy Roman Empire, and the Latin name Hydrangea was given to the plant by taxonomy scientists for its exorbitant hygrophilia (hydrangea translates as "a vessel of water"). The Japanese call hydrangea "adzisai", which in Japanese means "flower - purple sun". Of the large variety of hydrangea species in room culture, only garden hydrangea, or large-leaved, compact forms, is grown, all other types and varieties of hydrangeas in our latitudes are grown in gardens.

Botanical description

Hydrangea flowers in natural conditions are shrubs up to 3 m tall, medium-sized trees and lianas, capable of climbing tree trunks to a height of up to 30 m.In addition, depending on the species, they can be both evergreen and deciduous plants, and in our climate growers prefer to grow deciduous. Hydrangea leaves are usually large, opposite, oval with a sharp top, often with jagged edges and noticeable venation. Hydrangea blooms from spring to frost in large spherical inflorescences, corymbose or paniculate, consisting of two types of flowers: small fertile (fertile), usually located in the middle of the inflorescence, and large sterile (sterile), blooming at the edges. There are, however, species in which all the flowers in the inflorescence are fertile.

Most hydrangeas bloom with white flowers, but such a species, for example, a large-leaved hydrangea (or large-leaved hydrangea), blooms not only with white and cream, but also red, blue, lilac and pink flowers, and the color directly depends on the pH of the soil (level pH): on neutral soil, hydrangeas with beige and cream flowers grow, on alkaline - with lilac or pink, on acidic - with blue due to the aluminum contained in the soil, which the plant can absorb. Hydrangea fruit is a 2-5-chamber capsule with small seeds. Sometimes plants from the close genus Schizophragmatic are confused with hydrangea, but you should know that the so-called petiolate hydrangea is actually a schizophragmatic.

Growing features

Well, now we can talk about the features of growing hydrangeas in the garden. So:

  • the color of large-leaved hydrangea flowers depends on the pH of the soil in which it grows: in neutral soil, the flowers will be white or cream in color, in acidic - blue or blue, in neutral - pink or lilac. Therefore, to create multi-colored bushes, it is enough to change the acidity of the soil under each of them;
  • hydrangea is very moisture-loving, so take watering the plant very seriously;
  • bright light is very important for hydrangea, but in the direct sun the delicate petals quickly fade, so it is best to plant it where there will be light partial shade in the sultry midday;
  • the most important factor in caring for a hydrangea after a watering regime is timely correct pruning;
  • do not overfeed hydrangeas with organic matter, otherwise they, growing rapidly, will almost certainly not bloom;
  • even cold-resistant varieties of hydrangea need a warm shelter for the winter, but if your beauty is frozen, do not despair: most likely, it will recover during the growing season;
  • hydrangea is very rarely affected by diseases or pests.

Planting hydrangeas

Growing from seeds

By the seed method (generative) species hydrangeas successfully reproduce. The method of seed propagation is also used for the purpose of a selection experiment. How to grow hydrangea from seeds? Very simple, but you will need time.

Sowing hydrangea seeds is carried out in the fall: in a nutritious loose substrate, consisting of a mixture of leaf and peat soil with river sand in a ratio of 4: 2: 1, they sow hydrangea seeds, which are then covered with a light layer of the same mixture and moistened with a spray bottle. The container is covered with glass or film, which is periodically removed to ventilate the crops and moisten the substrate, which should be slightly damp at all times. The temperature required for germination is 14-20 ºC. As soon as shoots appear (this usually happens after a month and a half), the glass can be removed.

You need to dive hydrangea seedlings twice: the first time in the developmental stage of cotyledon leaves, the second - in May. Moreover, during the second dive, each seedling is planted in a separate pot with a diameter of 7 cm.After the second dive, young hydrangeas for hardening are exposed in the afternoon to fresh air in a place where direct sunlight, rain moisture and drafts do not reach. In the evening, the seedlings are brought into the room.

At home, hydrangeas are grown for two years, in winter - in a bright, cool room, and in summer, exposing them to fresh air if possible and removing emerging buds so as not to weaken young plants by flowering.

Seedling care

Two years later, in early spring, and if you live in a region with a cold climate, then in the fall, the grown seedlings are planted in open ground in a permanent place. When choosing a site for a hydrangea, keep in mind that all species of this plant, without exception, love sunlight, but species such as rough hydrangea, ground cover, tree-like and Sargent feel well in light shade. The soil is preferable neutral or slightly acidic, loose and rich in organic matter. You can acidify alkaline soil with high-moor peat or Acid Plus acidifier.

Make sure that there are no shrubs or trees with the same shallow root system as that of the hydrangea, because in the future between them there may be a struggle for moisture and nutrients in the upper layer of the soil. Planting the hydrangea begins by digging a hole, which should be twice the size of the earthen ball of the hydrangea seedling. Add peat, mineral and organic fertilizers mixed with the soil to the finished pit. Remove the seedling together with the lump from the pot, gently shake off the soil, straighten the roots, lower it into the hole and cover with soil mixed with compost, so that the root ball protrudes slightly above the level of the plot. Apply the soil, water the plant and mulch the area with needles or bark.

Hydrangea care in the garden

Care rules

Caring for a hydrangea in the garden is not difficult at all, but there are mandatory points that must be followed rigorously. The most important condition for caring for a hydrangea is properly organized watering - it should be abundant, approximately 30-50 liters of warm, settled water for each adult plant twice a week in hot weather. If the soil is mulched with peat, then it can be watered less often, since the peat remains moist for a long time.

To improve aeration of the roots, it is necessary to loosen the soil around the bush to a depth of about 5 cm several times during the spring and summer period. Do not forget to cut off the faded shoots.

Fertilizer

If you want the hydrangea to bloom in full force, you need to carry out a comprehensive feeding at least twice a year - before and after the hydrangea bloom. At the beginning of spring, the hydrangea is fed with a solution of 20 g of urea per bucket of water on the basis that three buckets of such a solution will be needed to feed an adult plant. After flowering, the hydrangea is fed with complex mineral fertilizers.

Throughout the summer, you can fertilize the hydrangea from time to time with slurry, but observe the measure so as not to overfeed the plant, otherwise large inflorescences with their weight can break fragile branches. Just in case, tie up the shoots to prevent this from happening.

Pruning

Hydrangeas that have reached three to four years of age are subject to pruning. Those species that bloom on the shoots of the current year are pruned in early spring, before the buds open and the sap begins to flow, so that the plant does not sap and does not die. But pruning too early makes the cuttings obtained after it unsuitable for rooting. Therefore, it is necessary to guess the time for pruning when the buds will only slightly swell and acquire a "live" appearance.

  • The tree hydrangea is cut first - it wakes up earlier than other species. Its long shoots are cut at a height of three to four buds, the cut parts are cut into cuttings.
  • Paniculata hydrangea is cut much more carefully: last year's shoots are only a third, but beautiful cuttings are obtained from these segments.
  • Large-leaved hydrangea is practically not pruned, only slightly rejuvenated, removing every fourth shoot every year, especially if it grows inside the bush, and, of course, dead or broken branches.

Hydrangea cuttings

From the shoots you got after trimming, cut pieces with two nodes so that there is an oblique cut under the lower node, and a straight cut above the upper one. There should be a distance of 2-3 cm from the node to the cut. Plant the cuttings in a greenhouse container with peat-sandy soil, immersing the lower part into the soil by 3 cm, water well. Then cover the greenhouse with a polyethylene "house".

Spray the cuttings with a spray bottle to keep the soil moist at all times. As soon as the cuttings take root, they are planted in open ground in a permanent place, where they will have time to grow up enough until autumn to courageously survive the coming winter.

Hydrangea after flowering

When the hydrangea has faded, it is time to prepare the plant for winter. Young seedlings growing in pots are transferred indoors, and in garden types of hydrangeas, wilted inflorescences are removed so that suddenly wet snow does not stick on them and break the fragile branches of the plant. In addition, you will need to huddle the base of the hydrangea bushes high and mulch the area in which they grow in order to reliably protect their superficial root system for the winter.

The most cold-resistant of hydrangeas are paniculate and ground cover. Their shoots are completely lignified by the fall, so they can more easily endure the winter cold even without shelter, if you do not live in a cold climate. It can withstand a non-severe winter without shelter and the hydrangea is tree-like.

Hydrangea wintering

Preparing for winter

In warm snowy winters, even thermophilic large-leaved and serrated hydrangeas can hibernate without a man-made shelter, but no one will tell you for sure to what temperature the thermometer column can drop in winter and how high the snow cover will be in the coming winter. Believing in assumptions and making mistakes means ruining your garden, so it is better to be vigilant and, perhaps, even distrustful of forecasts, but sleep peacefully on frosty nights, knowing that your plants are also fast asleep under their warm shelter.

So how and when to shelter hydrangeas for the winter? It is better to do this after the first frost, during October. Very young bushes are simply covered with dry earth to the top. Older bushes are bent to the ground and covered with lutrasil or roofing material, which are pressed down with bricks so that the wind does not rip them off. Adult bushes will require a lot of effort from you: the bush is carefully tied and wrapped with lutrasil or spunbond. Then a frame in the form of a cylinder made of a metal mesh is erected around it at a distance of 20-25 cm from the bush, and the frame should be 10 cm higher than the plant.The space between the mesh and the hydrangea is filled with dry foliage, which is more than enough in the gardens at this time of the year. In the spring, in April, the frame with foliage can be removed, and when a stable above-zero temperature is established, the spunbond is also removed.

Hydrangea in winter

Whether or not to shelter your hydrangeas for the winter is up to you. We offer shelter options in the event of a harsh, and most importantly, snowless winter. If there is no severe frost in your area, then the shelter may be symbolic, and if your hydrangea also belongs to winter-hardy species, then it may not need to be protected from frost. But if the hydrangea in your garden does not belong to the cold-resistant species, and the winters in your area are unpredictable, use our advice in the fall to sleep peacefully in the winter, to see the hydrangea wake up to life in the spring, and to admire its incomparable beautiful flowering in the summer. ...

Types and varieties

Before planting a hydrangea in your garden, you need to know which of its types suits you, since each of them has its own requirements in agricultural technology. Growing hydrangea paniculata, for example, in some important points (pruning, preparation for winter) differs from growing hydrangea tree or large-leaved, therefore, the more you know about the species, the easier it will be for you to care for any of them. So...

Hydrangea tree (Hydrangea arborescens)

A species widespread in the gardens of our climatic zone. Treelike hydrangea is a shrub that reaches a height of one to three meters. Inflorescences are formed at the ends of annual shoots, at the beginning of flowering, the flowers have a greenish tint, but when they bloom, they turn white or cream.

Popular garden forms are Invisible Spirit - pink hydrangea, Sterilis - white hydrangea, characterized by abundant flowering, Annabelle hydrangea and Grandiflora hydrangea with large snow-white inflorescences (just do not confuse this tree hydrangea variety with panicle hydrangea variety of the same name).

Hydrangea paniculata (Hydrangea paniculata)

In nature, it grows as a shrub or tree with a height of two to five meters. In garden culture, it is one of the most demanded species. In one place, panicle hydrangea can grow for more than forty years. Its shoots woody quickly, which makes this species resistant to cold.Inflorescences are formed at the tops of the shoots of the current year, so the flowering is very abundant, although the buds that appear already at the end of June open only by August or September. The inflorescences of hydrangea are paniculate pyramidal in shape, the flowers at the very beginning of flowering have a greenish tint, then they become white, towards autumn they acquire a pink color, then brick and at the end of flowering again become greenish.

The most famous garden forms: Grandiflora, hydrangea Vanilla Freise, Kuisu, Tardiva.

Large-leaved hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla)

Which is called garden, and is most often grown in the garden, but there are compact varieties that can be grown in containers on terraces and even indoors. This species has dense foliage of bright green color, the shoots of the current year are herbaceous, therefore the plant has a very low cold resistance. However, the buds for the shoots of the current year, at the ends of which the inflorescences bloom, are laid in the previous fall, therefore it is believed that the large-leaved hydrangea blooms on last year's shoots. The shape of the inflorescences is usually umbellate, viburnum, which is commonly called Japanese, or hemispherical. The color of the flowers depends on the pH level of the soil.

Interesting, for example, are such varieties from the recently bred cold-resistant: Endless Summer - blue hydrangea if it grows on acidic soil, and lilac if it grows on neutral soil; Renata Steinger - blue hydrangea; double-flowered cultivar Romance and Express.

Hydrangea oakleaf (Hydrangea quercifolia)

A very attractive look, but, unfortunately, it is not at all winter-hardy, therefore it requires thorough insulation for the winter. It makes an impression not only with lush flowering, but also with leaves of a beautiful shape, unusual for a hydrangea. An oak-leaved hydrangea grows up to two meters in height, has paniculate inflorescences 10-30 cm in length with white at the beginning of flowering, and eventually purple flowers that bloom in June-July.

Ground cover hydrangea (Hydrangea heteromalla)

Or hydrangea variegated - a frost-resistant species, reaching a height of two to three meters in nature. In culture, it is often used to form a standard form. Dark green leaves 20 cm long have a smooth surface and a woolly, pubescent underside, inflorescences are loose, corymbose, at first white, but by the end of flowering turning pink. Blooms in late June or early July. Particularly popular is Bretschneider's ground cover hydrangea, which blooms profusely with large milky-white inflorescences.

In addition to these, the most popular types of hydrangeas, gardeners are also interested in radiant hydrangea, ash hydrangea, rough hydrangea, serrata hydrangea, Sargent hydrangea, and climbing hydrangea petiole, which (you remember) is a hydrangea only conditionally.

Literature

  1. Read the topic on Wikipedia
  2. Features and other plants of the family Hydrangea
  3. List of all species on The Plant List
  4. More information on World Flora Online
  5. Information about Garden Plants
  6. Information on Perennial Plants
  7. Shrub Information

Sections: Garden plants Perennials Flowering Shrubs Plants on G Hydrangea


Hydrangea - description of the flower, features of cultivation, planting and care in the open field (photo)

Beautifully flowering trees and shrubs have always been very popular and are actively used for landscaping courtyards, gardens and parks. Hydrangea occupies a special place among such crops. Gardeners and landscape designers love this plant for its beautiful and lush bloom, unpretentiousness and resistance to cold weather. Caring for a hydrangea in the garden is simple, but it requires adherence to some rules.

Beautiful hydrangea in the garden

Hydrangea belongs to the family hydrangea and according to various sources, the genus includes from 30 to 80 different types of shrubs, trees and even lianas. Through the labor of breeders, many varieties have been bred, which differ in their flowering, inflorescence shape, bush size and frost resistance. Some species are suitable for indoor cultivation, but most are suitable for outdoor planting.

In temperate climates most often grown deciduous hydrangea species... The most common varieties grow in the form of a shrub or small tree. They can grow in height from 1 m to 5 m, but there are also dwarf varieties, the height of which does not exceed 100 cm. These are plants with a lush rounded or spreading crown, densely covered with opposite large green oval leaves with a pointed end. Veins can be clearly distinguished on the surface of the leaf plates, and the edge is framed with small teeth.

Hydrangea is a noble and beautiful flower that diversifies any garden


Features of the plant and its origin

Panicle hydrangea is the most successful and correct option for self-planting at a summer cottage. In height, as already mentioned above, the bush does not even reach one and a half meters, but its flowers will envelop all the branches.

The panicle hydrangea today includes several dozen varieties, although even during the Soviet era there were no more than 5 of them.

The presented fact is primarily associated with high-tech developments, or, simply put, the hybridization process, thanks to which today you can enjoy inflorescences of a wide variety of shades.

Hydrangea came to summer cottages from the Far East, where the shrub went through a period of "domestication" after wild life in China and Japan. By the way, now you can still find wild-growing hydrangeas in these countries, however, their growth does not even reach 1 meter.

The appearance of the garden varieties of the presented shrub allows it to be used in summer cottages in landscape design, since, if desired, the bush can be given a suitable shape with the help of timely pruning.


Features of growing garden hydrangea

Those who decide to grow a hydrangea on their garden plot need follow certain rules her planting, placement and care. It should be remembered that only treelike and panicle hydrangeas grow in Siberia.

Planting and leaving


The plant loves well-lit areas with little shade. In sunny areas, hydrangeas grow well and bloom quickly, but from excessive heat they suffer from drying out of the soil and lose their turgor. In full shade, small inflorescences are formed.

The soil for planting shrubs must have an acidic reaction. Alkaline soil plant will suffer from chlorosis and bloom poorly... Neutral soil for hydrangea is unacceptable.

Hydrangeas planted on nutritious loams will take root well and will grow. Therefore, it is recommended to add clay during planting at the bottom of the pit.

Hydrangea belongs to moisture-loving plants, however, it is not recommended to plant it in areas with a high groundwater level. In addition, the wintering of the shrub directly depends on the moisture intake of the plant roots. The less moisture they accumulate in the fall, the better the plant will overwinter. That is why in autumn the soil around the bushes must be partially covered from precipitation.

Planting garden hydrangeas is done in the spring in pits, approximate the dimensions of which should be 50x50x70 cm... The plant is planted after the last frost has passed.

Store-bought plants with a closed root system can be planted until the end of summer, preparing deeper and wider pits for them. After planting, the bushes are well watered, and the soil around them is 6 cm covered with sawdust or peat mulch.

The distance between plants should be from one to one and a half meters. If the group planting was conceived as a "hedge", then the bushes are planted more densely.

Watering and feeding

During the season in the open field, the bushes are watered once a week. In hot months, the frequency of watering increases up to 2 times a week.

Hydrangea care includes mandatory feeding, which produced twice a year:

  1. In May or June, during the budding period, the plant is fed with nitrogen fertilizers.
  2. In summer, the bushes need potassium, which is added according to the instructions.

It is better not to bring ash under the bushes of hydrangea, since it reduces the acidity of the soil.

Pruning hydrangea

When caring for a hydrangea, you need to be especially careful about pruning a shrub. Pruning is done every spring. Some growers cut the bushes very short, as a result of which they are removed most flower buds... This cannot be done. It is recommended to approach each bush individually.

First of all, the frozen parts of the shoots are cut out from the plant. If after this there are enough powerful shoots, then last year's branches can be cut to the upper branch. With a small number of annual shoots, only inflorescences are removed from the faded branches.

Too old and thickening shoots are completely cut out. Annual shoots are not recommended to be cut out at all. It should be noted that inflorescences for bouquets can be cut during the entire period until autumn.

What to do to make the hydrangea change color?

Experienced flower growers know that by feeding bushes with pink inflorescences with certain fertilizers, as a result, you can get a plant, blooming with blue or blue flowers... To do this, starting in September, once every two weeks, the following is added to the soil:

  • solution of aluminum alum (2 pcs. for 1 liter of water)
  • iron or aluminum sulfate (20-50 g).

If fertilizers are applied irregularly, then both blue and pink inflorescences will begin to form on the shrub.

Preparing hydrangeas for winter

Unfortunately, without shelter in the Urals and Siberia, hydrangea will not be able to overwinter. Therefore, caring for her in regions with cold winters includes preparing bushes for wintering.

Before sheltering the plants, it is necessary to feed with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers and remove all the leaves from them, leaving only the upper ones. This will help speed up the process of lignification of the shoots.

Paniculate and tree hydrangea grown in the southern regions can be simply huddle high or cover with peat... For regions with unpredictable and cold winters, you can choose one of the proposed methods:

  1. Cover the trunk circle with spruce branches. Bend the shoots away from the center, secure with staples and cover with spruce branches. Cover the center of the bush with peat. Lutrasil is laid on top, which is pressed with bricks or boards.
  2. Young small bushes are tied with a rope and carefully, without haste, are attracted and tied to boards lying on the ground, into which nails are driven. From above, the plants are thrown with sawdust or spruce branches, and covered with spunbond, lutrasil or a sheet of iron.
  3. It will be difficult to pull powerful bushes to the ground, so a different method of shelter is used for them. The shoots are wrapped in lutrasil, fixed with tape or rope. A metal mesh is installed around the bush. Dry leaves are thrown inside the armament, and everything is covered with polyethylene or roofing felt from above. The frame should be 10-15 cm higher than the bushes.

When growing hydrangeas, you should know that every year it winter hardiness increases... Therefore, in some regions, over time, you can refuse to shelter bushes for the winter. But it is imperative to cover young plants.


Reproduction of Siberian irises

Reproduction of Siberian iris is possible by separating independent segments from the rhizome or by dividing the bush and seeds. The second method is more laborious and less frequently used.

Dividing the bush

The breeding time for Siberian iris varieties can be autumn or spring. The period is chosen depending on the climatic conditions of the region. In early winter, the procedure is performed in the spring, and in areas with a late cold snap, iris can be propagated a couple of months after flowering.

Before dividing the iris bush, the foliage is cut off, leaving the lower part. Further, the root is divided in such a way that 2-3 growth nodes are present on each division. The root incisions are made with a sharp knife.

The cut material is kept in a dark place for a week to heal the wounds, and before planting it is soaked in water so that the roots swell slightly.

Dividing a bush is the most effective way to reproduce

Growing Siberian iris from seeds

Many gardeners grow irises from seeds. There is no increased complexity, but it will take time for a young plant to start blooming. Reproduction algorithm:

  1. The seed box is wrapped with gauze so that after ripening the seeds do not fall to the ground.
  2. Planting material is sown on the garden bed. Embedding depth - 2 cm.
  3. The ground is covered with insulation (agrofibre, synthetic winterizer, isospan, etc.) so that in winter and spring young seedlings do not die from frost.
  4. With the onset of spring, the shelter is removed.

You can sow iris seeds at home, but for this they must be stratified. They are wrapped in cheesecloth, packed in a plastic container and placed in the refrigerator. Sowing starts in February. Sowed in individual pots. Future sprouts are provided with warmth and light. Siberian iris is best planted in spring, it is right to do it when it gets warm outside.


Rules for care and cultivation in the garden

In order for the bush to bloom magnificently and delight gardeners with aroma and beautiful inflorescences, adhere to certain care rules. Let's consider them further.

Watering

Stalked hydrangea is very fond of moisture. In the summer, it is necessary to provide her with abundant and regular watering. Pour 30 to 50 liters of warm and settled water under each hydrangea bush. In dry weather, water the vine 2 times a week. If it was raining, then watering should be reduced to 1 time per week. In any case, a mulched plant can be watered only once a week.

Hydrangea can hardly endure the sultry summer days. She just needs humid air, so if possible, place a sprayer near the plant.

Plant feeding

In order for the hydrangea to bloom profusely, take care of feeding, which should be done several times a year. The first feeding is performed in the spring, when the shoots begin to grow actively. Prepare this solution:

  • urea (20 g)
  • superphosphate (30 g)
  • sulfuric potassium (30 g).

Use the prepared solution for 1 sq. meter of soil.

For a rich foliage color, feed the hydrangea with micronutrient fertilizers, which contain iron and magnesium. Apply fertilizer 2 times a month, starting in mid-spring.

For the first feeding, a solution of bird droppings (1:10) is also suitable. In the future, you can use complex fertilizers with a high phosphorus content, which will provide active budding and lush flowering.

During the budding period, prepare a solution with the following composition:

  • superphosphate (60 g)
  • potassium sulfate (40 g).

Use the prepared solution for 1 sq. meter of soil.

Be sure to feed the plant at the end of summer, adding 15 - 20 kg of compost or rotted manure under each bush.

In order for the shoots of petiolate hydrangea to be more durable, water the plant with a weak solution of potassium permanganate. It will also serve as prevention against pests and diseases.

Advice! If you want the hydrangea to turn numb for the winter, stop feeding from the beginning of August.

Pruning

You do not need to trim the hydrangea that creeps along the ground. It is enough only to remove dried and diseased processes from time to time. If the vine is directed upwards, then the shoots need regular formation. Direct them in the right direction, fix and make support. As a result of pruning, side shoots will appear, which will create a dense cover.

Important! If you do not prune the bushes, then the shoots will gradually thicken, and the vine will take on a neglected and unkempt look, it will bloom badly.

Hydrangea responds well to pruning, and the bush retains its shape.

Basic rules for pruning petiolate hydrangea:

  • Pruning is carried out in the spring.
  • You need to leave from 6 to 10 strong shoots.
  • Annual shoots are shortened to 3-5 pairs of buds.

Important! All parts of hydrangea contain cyanogenic glycosides and are considered poisonous. Therefore, wear protective gloves when cutting.


Growing hydrangea in the suburbs

How to grow hydrangea in the suburbs? In the middle zone of the Russian Federation, for example, the Leningrad or Moscow Region, planting hydrangeas requires preparation. It is better to place the seedling in a shaded place. Having planted a bush under the scorching sun, it is necessary to shade. Otherwise, in conditions of a lack of moisture, it will not work to get a viable plant.

On a note! Wet soil with a slightly acidic reaction is preferable for the plant. Growing on clay or sandy soils will not be easy. Before planting, it is necessary to apply complex fertilizers to the soil.

Creating favorable conditions for wintering will allow you to get rich flowering. Proper feeding will allow the plant to develop a root system. For the first fertilization, you should take urea with a high percentage of nitrogen in the composition. After 2 weeks, you need to feed with a complex organic fertilizer. In the process of bud formation, you can feed the bush with a complex of organic and mineral substances.

Summing up, we can say that hydrangea is rightfully considered an excellent ornamental plant, pleasing the eye with lush and bright flowering. By observing the prescribed care conditions, you can get a robust plant with a lifespan of over 40 years.


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